Lake Baringo National Reserve

J.W. Gregory, an English geologist who travelled to the Rift Valley on foot from the Kenyan coast of Mombasa first set eyes on Lake Bogoria in 1892 and described the scene as “the most beautiful view in Africa”. The late Leslie Brown, a world authority on birds, and birds of prey in particular, wrote “I have been there when the spectacle of flamingos and other birds around the lake was of a sublime magnificence”.

The water of Lake  Baringo is fresh unlike those other Great Rift Valley lakes of Bogoria, Elementeita, Nakuru and Magadi which are “soda lakes.” Although it is not known where the water flows out of Lake Baringo, it is reasoned that it must do so as otherwise the water would be subject to a continual process of evaporation, and the Lake  would become soda. It may well do so from a submerged crevasse at its northern end, emerging 100 ks north at Karpedda.

As a freshwater Lake it is home to hippos, crocodiles and an abundance of fish and birds, but it does not have flamingoes, as these feed on the algae specific to soda lakes. Despite this, it is most famous as an ornithologist’s paradise, with 500 bird species, many of which are extremely rare or otherwise only seen in this area.

Lake Bogoria is truely a wild area; the lake itself set at the bottom of a trough at the base of a sheer 600m wall - the Ngendelel escarpment. Hot water geysers and fumaroles are found on the western shoreline evidencing the turmoil below. In the middle of the day, the heat can be oppressive but there are some cool places to escape the heat, such as the Fig Tree Campsite where a mass of giant figs create a cool haven and a limpid stream of fresh water adds to the ambience of the location. There is very little game at Lake Bogoria, but oddly enough, its is a haven for Greater Kudu and sightings of these animals is quite common. One of the greatest attractions of the lake is multitude of pink flamingos and other bird species.

Lake Bogoria is roughly 60 kms north of Nakuru and the most common point of access to the Reserve is via Loboi Gate on the north end of the reserve. From Nakuru town, take the main B4 road north towards Marigat and roughly 4 kms before reaching Marigat, turn east to Loboi on the E461 dirt road and continue to the gate 21 kms onward.

It is also possible to enter the reserve via the Majimoto Gate, which is rougly 18 kms south of Loboi Gate. The reach Majimoto, turn east off the B4 at Mogotio and follow a dirt road for 24 kms to Mugurin. Continue on the main track and turn right after approximately 20 kms to Majimoto.

This route also permits you to access the Reserve from Emsos Gate, at the south end of the lake. One kilometre after Mugurin, turn right off the dirt road onto a very poor track and proceed for approximately 14 kms to Emsos. Access through Emsos Gate can only be recommended for four wheel drive vehicles with high clearance.